Mike Lucas charged into the surf at Newport Beach's legendary Wedge,
paddling out to brave waves so big they seemed to fill the sky.
"You quickly realize you could be dead in a second if you don't know what you're doing,"
said Lucas, 26, of Huntington Beach.
From
Santa Barbara to San Diego, the pounding surf
— unleashed by Hurricane
Marie circulating off the Baja coast —
whipped up a quintessential
Southern
California scene: surfers and body-boarders scrambling to the
beach
to ride the monster waves while thousands of spectators arrived
— where a rock jetty thrust into the ocean amplifies
waves' height and force —
lifeguards and surfers estimated the waves
were reaching heights of 25 feet.
Lucas said he hadn't seen breakers so
large in years,
and it filled him with nervous excitement.
to
bear witness, clogging the roadways and lining the seashore.
At the Wedge
— where a rock jetty thrust into the ocean amplifies
waves' height and force —
lifeguards and surfers estimated the waves
were reaching heights of 25 feet.
Lucas said he hadn't seen breakers so
large in years,
and it filled him with nervous excitement.
But "once you get out there, you get in ...more
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