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By Derek Rielly on in Surfing
That surfboard better be man-sized, kiddo. We're chasing juice.
But that ain't my experience. I still tremble at the thought of my first trip to Hawaii. I was staying with a pal of Ross Clarke-Jones at Backyards Sunset and happened to arrive at the start of a week-long swell that plateaued at 10-to-12 feet. From my balcony I could see these immense triangular peaks way ...more
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